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Victorian 18ct Gold, Ruby and Diamond Navette Ring

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This fabulous ring has now sold - you can view more vintage ruby rings here.

A delightful Victorian ring set with three rubies and 16 rose cut diamonds. The rubies have been oval mixed cut, and vary from deep red to pinky red. The rose cut diamonds, which may be repurposed from an older piece of Georgian jewellery, dazzle beautifully thanks to their rudimentary faceted edges. All stones have been set into a solid 18ct gold navette shaped setting. The navette (little boat) design is very flattering on the finger and tends to elongate the digit. It's a popular shape both for ring settings and gemstone cuts, with its origins in the French court of the 1700s.

The ring is in excellent condition for its age. There are some abrasions visible to the stones with the loupe, but nothing you would spot with just the eye, and all stones are securely set. The band is solid and not overly worn. There are no hallmarks (entirely usual for this period), but we have had the gold content tested by Birmingham Assay Office who found it to be 18ct yellow gold. The band has been resized, and a tiny portion of gold at the bottom of the shank tested between 14ct and 18ct. This is a striking and very attractive ring, very much of its time. We would assume that - like most rubies for centuries past - the stones in this ring have been heated to improve their colour. The diamonds have not been treated.

More Information

  • Size: UK M / US 6.25 / EU 52
  • Age: 1860-1890
  • Setting Length: 1.8cm
  • Material: 18ct Yellow Gold
  • Marks: None (assay office tested)
  • Weight: 2.9 grams
  • Principal Stone: Ruby
  • Principal Cut: Oval Mixed
  • Est Principal Weight: 0.25ct
  • Second Stone: Diamond
  • Second Cut: Rose Cut
  • Est Weight: 0.32cts (together)
  • Case: Recycled Kraft Ring Box

All stone weights and grades are our best estimates. Metals are checked for authenticity, and any detectable or assumed stone treatments are disclosed.